What five grams of durum wheat seed can become
In 2014, the beginning fit in the palm of a hand. Five grams of durum wheat seed, the weight of a few paperclips, poured into a small packet after a visit to the Ethiopian Biodiversity Institute genebank. Starting from five grams poses a multiplication problem. Seed has to become more seed before it can become bread. That meant seasons of restraint, the kind that isn’t romantic when the hungry months arrive and the grain store starts to echo.